
smokin gun
25 years from now?
New Orleans won’t be here.
So I’m told, and I don’t disagree, she is the modern day atlantis, and she is sinking. But to think of it in my lifetime? Before my own eyes? Makes me view things much different. So I guess that’s the point. A message to me.
All you see, all you hear, all you make happen, all you participate in? will be a part of some HUGE mystery many many many years from now. Just like we are currently still searching for Atlantis. What if it were a place that existed on its way out? What if it’s a place where the most creative, explosive, and brilliant people flocked to for some mysterious reason, before it was all swallowed up by the Ocean. (and our own undoing, that we don’t really know what WAS the undoing of Atlantis, to repeat it again and again, and …)
New Orleans. The dirty south. The jewel of the south, the grande old dame… the big easy, the big Uneasy, the city that CARE forgot. The little blue dot that could, the WHO DAT nation, the home of the SAINTS, the AIN’TS, and all the yats inbetween… New Orleans. N’awlins. Do you know what it means? Pimp the shrimp, nab the crab, no dumbo wit da gumbo, tip or be thirsty, banana’s foster on da roster, red beans and rice, oh so nice, file gumbo, my chat ah mee yo! Be nice or Leave!
Many one liners, yeah u rite!
I wake up this am, and its absolutely beautiful outside. Fall time can be hot or cold, humid or dry, you never know, but you do know, that the change of weather can bring on some serious fog, a mystical mist to transform the magical city.
Spent the evening with friends from out of town, on their way to the St Augustine Pirate Festival in florida. With them? A new book they’ve written called “The Book Of Pirates”, a guide to plundering and pillaging and other pursuits. It’s a very well done book, a kid would enjoy every illustration, every explanation, and my own copy is autographed to me, with a little extra love inside to boot. We spend a few hours in pirates alley, then we jump out onto bourbon. Its quiet tonite, a mid week lull, before a weekend of tourism begins.
It never ends in New Orleans, the constant ebb and flow of tourists, drunks, artists, writers, musicians, and conventioneers, leering at the “Adult Disneyland” before them. That feeling of Europeans, and Slaves, and Quadroon Balls, the rich, the poor, the Irish, The Haitians, The French, Carribbean, Cajun, and Native American Cultures clashing, and melding into a giant Gumbo pot that has something for everyone. Different Languages jump out in conversations, various camera’s going off constantly, and music flowing across the wind, sometimes its jazz, sometimes its Cajun, tonite? Cover bands.
Barkers taunt us to come inside, Strippers pose in doorways with smiles to invite, waiters claim their poboy is the best. We move on. For fun? Some mardigras beads with pirates on them. Then on to a three for one drink special, and turns out the bar of choice? Is a bartender I know.
We have a conversation about places we used to go to, and the bartender who works there now, and what a jerk he is. Tim tells me he almost kicked the guys ass one night, I reply, “Ya Shoulda”. Back to the street, back to pirates alley, on to the next bar. My friends aren’t in town for more than a night, so they can’t stay out too late, but that’s okay.
In the next bar we go to, I bump into an old friend I haven’t seen in so long. She’s a little older, and loves her wine. We catch up on old times, and my friends take off for their hostel, and trailers, and I catch a cab home. I smile, as its early, midnite, and I’m not too drunk, ate just enough food to hold me, and the right amount of conversation to remind me of just how lucky I am, to know so many people.
In New Orleans? People come and go, but tourism remains, and eventually, the tourist who returns each year? Is like an old friend you’ve left behind. I know, I spent several years trotting tourists round. Working at the maison dupuy in the quarter, opened many doors for me. I had just gone through divorce, and was living alone. It was easy to get off work, and go out for dinner, show folks a touch of the city, and then home. I got to a point where once a month, for years AFTER working there, the same folks would come year after year, and seek me out, and we’d go out on the town.
Among close friends, were Lee and Pat Norling. They were from WAY up north, in Minnesota, and they were like vikings to me. Very tall people, and from a cold environment. One year while waiting on the street car, it was about 30 out, and they were bundled up in sweaters, and the locals in down. folks would stare them down like they were crazy, and one even commented, “Aren’t you cold?” I smiled as Pat replied, “It was 33 below when we left home this morning”… Nothing like January in New Orleans.
Another couple I met about the same time were Piper and Andy from Two Boots in Brooklyn. They would come down here and eat at various restaurants, and then go back home a recreate the recipe for their clientele. We always ate good when they were in town too. Fact is, I met them the same time as Lee and Pat. Or at least on the same day. Lee and Pat had been drinking with me on Bourbon, and were my only real customers for the day. They left and went back to their room. In comes Piper and Andy, and they’re drinkin and dancin. I’m about to do a shift change, and they convince me to go to the Spotted Cat with them for their wedding anniversary. I chuckle, since it was actually Lee and Pats anniversary as well. I wonder where they are, and wished I could grab them to join in. As we walk out the door, there’s Lee and Pat, and we all head to the spotted cat for the new orleans jazz vipers.
We have a great time. A year later, Pat and Lee come back, we go out and party, and for fun we go to the spotted cat. I pass a couple at the bar, they’re looking at me like they know me, but my haircolor is different. Turns out, its Piper and Andy, and here we are again, following tradition… the spotted cat for their wedding anniversaries.. the following year when we got hit by katrina, Lee and Pat came down earlier than usual, and got a room, when they were really hard to find. Lee’s mom fell ill, and they had to cut their trip short. Andy and Piper had decided not to come at all, since things weren’t normal. I was bummed. but then I met a guy doing an article on tipitinas foundation, and he knew Piper and Andy, so I sent a message through him to them.
Low and Behold, on Jan 12th, guess who sat down in front of me for a drink? YUP, there they were. these two couples would play an interesting friendship role with me over the years. Lee and Pat, very close friends for life, and Piper and Andy, tourist couples for life. I would send folks to see them in Brooklyn, all the time. I again, look forward to this january, when they come to town.